Cosmetic and dermatological formulations comprising flavonoids

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological formulations having  
     a) a content of a compound or several compounds from the group consisting of flavonoids, or having  
     b) a content of an active compound combination comprising a compound or several compounds chosen from the group consisting of flavonoids in combination with a compound or several compounds chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives and  
     c) if appropriate an additional content of a compound or several compounds from the group consisting of antioxidants.

[0001] The present invention relates in particular to cosmetic anddermatological formulations comprising flavonoids, their glycosides and,if appropriate, combinations thereof with cinnamic acid derivatives orantioxidants.

[0002] The damaging effect of the ultraviolet component of solarradiation on the skin is generally known. While rays having a wavelengthbelow 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layerin the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm,the so-called UVB range, cause erythema, simple sunburn or even burns ofgreater or lesser severity.

[0003] The narrower range around 308 nm is stated as the maximum for theerythema activity of sunlight.

[0004] Numerous compounds which are derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor,of 4-aminobenzoic acid, of cinnamic acid, of salicylic acid, ofbenzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole are known for protectionagainst UVB radiation.

[0005] It is also important to have filter substances available for therange between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range,since rays in this range can cause reactions on photosensitive skin. Ithas been proved that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic andcollagenic fibres of connective tissue, which causes the skin to ageprematurely, and that it is to be regarded as a cause of numerousphototoxic and photo-allergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVBradiation may be intensified by UVA radiation.

[0006] Certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are therefore used forprotection against the rays of the UVA range, the photostability ofwhich derivatives (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) is not adequate.

[0007] However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions,the photochemical reaction products then intervening in skin metabolism.

[0008] Such photochemical reaction products are chiefly free-radicalcompounds, for example hydroxyl radicals. Undefined free-radicalphoto-products which are formed in the skin itself can also showuncontrolled secondary reactions because of their high reactivity.However, singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygenmolecule, may also occur under UV irradiation, as may short-livedepoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is distinguishedfrom the triplet oxygen normally present (free-radical ground state) byan increased reactivity. Nevertheless, excited, reactive (free-radical)triplet states of the oxygen molecule also exist.

[0009] UV radiation is furthermore counted among ionizing radiation.There is therefore the risk of ionic species also being formed during UVexposure, which then in turn are capable of intervening oxidatively inbiochemical processes.

[0010] To prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and/orfree-radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic ordermatological formulations.

[0011] It has already been proposed to employ vitamin E, a substance ofknown antioxidative action, in light protection formulations, althoughhere too the effect achieved falls far short of that hoped for.

[0012] The effect of solar radiation on the skin, apart from thedevelopment of photo-weals and tanning, caused chiefly by the UVB range,is a slow and progressive degradation of the connective tissue lyingunderneath the epidermis, caused by the longer-wavelength range ofsunlight, the UVA, in which the elastic and strengthening fibres aredestroyed by irradiation. The decreasing strength of the connectivetissue leads to increased formation of wrinkles, and in the extreme casecan lead to so-called “farmer's skin” or even actinic keratosis.Wrinkles, ruga and dry skin which form due to environmental influencesbefore the actual biological age and are the symptom of “prematureageing of the skin” are regarded as cosmetically undesirable.

[0013] Antioxidants are chiefly used as protective substances againstthe decay of the formulations comprising them. Nevertheless, it is knownthat undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animalskin. Such processes play an essential role in ageing of the skin.

[0014] Oxidative damage to the skin and its more detailed causes aredescribed in the paper “Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury”in “Oxidative Stress in Dermatology”, page 323 et seq. (Marcel DeckerInc., New York, Basle, Hong Kong, editors: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, andLester Packer, Berkeley/California).

[0015] The object of the invention was therefore to provide cosmetic anddermatological active compounds and formulations and light protectionformulations which are used for prophylaxis and treatment oflight-sensitive skin, and also of normal skin exposed to the sun.

[0016] The lips are furthermore an area of the face which, due to itsstructure and exposure, is severely subjected to and influenced byexternal influences. The naturally red colour of the lips is based onthe fact that the skin of the lips is much thinner than “normal” skinand sweat and sebaceous glands are also absent. Melanine is present to asignificantly lesser degree. The absence of some of the naturalprotection of the skin means that lips are exposed to greater stressesthan normal skin under cold temperatures, heat and solar radiation.Protection and care of the lips are therefore necessary to obtain asmooth, rosy appearance of the lips. If no adequate protection of thelips has been present during exposure, the abovementioned symptomsmanifest themselves, alleviation and elimination of which can also beregarded as a cosmetic concern.

[0017] The invention moreover relates to formulations of extremely lowso-called “stinging potential” and formulations for non-specific,non-pathological itching.

[0018] As a barrier organ of the human organism, the skin, especiallythe epidermis, is subjected to external effects to a considerableextent. According to current scientific understanding, the skinrepresents an immunological organ which, as an immunocompetentperipheral compartment, plays its own role in inductive, effective andregulatory immune processes of the entire organism.

[0019] The epidermis is richly equipped with nerves andperipheroceptors, such as Vater-Pacini lamellated corpuscles, Merkelcell-neurite complexes and free nerve endings for sensation of pain,cold and heat and itching.

[0020] In humans with delicate, sensitive or vulnerable skin, aneurosensory phenomenon called “stinging” (“sting”=injure, burn, hurt)can be observed. This “delicate skin” differs fundamentally from “dryskin” with thickened and hardened horny layers.

[0021] Typical reactions of “stinging” on delicate skin are reddening,tightening and burning of the skin and itching. Typical disturbingneurosensory phenomena associated with the terms “stinging” or“sensitive skin” are reddening of the skin, tingling, prickling,tightening and burning of the skin and itching. They can be caused bystimulating ambient conditions, for example massage, action ofsurfactants, influence of weather such as sun, cold, dryness and alsodamp heat, thermal radiation and UV radiation, for example from the sun.

[0022] In “Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists” 28, pages 197 -209 (May 1977) P. J. Frosch and A. M. Kligman describe a method forestimating the “stinging potential” of substances applied topically.Positive substances employed here are, for example, lactic acid andpyruvic acid. However, amino acids, in particular glycine, have alsobeen determined as having a neurosensory action (such substances arecalled “stingers”) when measured by this method.

[0023] According to findings to date, such a sensitivity towards quitespecific substances occurs to different degrees in individuals. Thismeans that a person who experiences “stinging effects” in contact with asubstance will with high probability experience them repeatedly on eachfurther contact. However, contact with other “stingers” can equally takeplace without any reaction.

[0024] Itching on atopic skin is to be regarded as a neurosensoryphenomenon, as is itching with skin diseases, although this is only asymptom of these diseases but conversely can also developnon-specifically, i.e. without a clinical finding of a disturbance ofthe skin, infection or irritation. Although non-specific itching is alsoa first indication of a possible masked general disease, it can also becaused by stress or other environmental influences.

[0025] Itching without a clearly recognizable reason can furthermoreoccur, preferentially on rather sensitive persons.

[0026] “Stinging” phenomena can thus be regarded generally asdisturbances to be treated cosmetically. More severe itching, on theother hand, especially severe itching of the skin occurring with atopy,can also be described as a more serious dermatological disturbance,while itching which occurs with stinging or non-specifically without adisease can also be regarded as a disturbance to be treatedcosmetically.

[0027] The problem of sensitive or delicate skin is furthermoreincreasing ever more. This is on the one hand often characterized by anincreased susceptibility to stinging, but is also characterized by othercriteria, such as: skin which tends to go red, skin of-photo type I orII, known allergy, a basic dermatological disease, such as atopicdermatitis or psoriasis, known intolerances to cosmetic products, thesubjective feeling of a lack of oil and moisture content of the skin.

[0028] For further characterization of sensitive skin, a “permeable”barrier which manifests itself in an increased TEWL is discussed.Products having an occlusive action or lipid-substituting products whichlower the TEWL after application are recommended for barrierregeneration. P. Elias even describes various lipid mixtures which havethe effect of barrier regeneration on the skin of mice which has beenpredamaged with acetone. Topical application of RRR-a-tocopherol alsodetectably improves the skin barrier.

[0029] If human hair is to be coloured permanently, only oxidizing haircolouring methods are suitable in practice. During oxidative colouringof the hair, the dyestuff chromophore is formed by reaction ofprecursors (phenols, aminophenols, less frequently also diamines) andbases (usually p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, usuallyhydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations of about 6% areusually used here.

[0030] It is usually assumed that, in addition to the colouring action,a bleaching action also occurs due to the hydrogen peroxide. Inoxidatively coloured human hair, as in bleached hair, microscopic holesare detectable at the places where melanine granules were present.

[0031] The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide can reactnot only with the colour precursors but also with the hair substance andunder certain circumstances can cause damage to the hair as a result.

[0032] Derivatives of thioglycolic acid, which reduces the S-S bond ofkeratin and therefore renders deformation of the hair possible, areemployed for permanent wave treatment of hair. The S-S bonds mustsubsequently be closed again by a so-called fixer so that thedeformation is retained. Permanent wave treatment takes place in analkaline, neutral or acid medium, in which the hair and scalp swell andreact very sensitively.

[0033] It is furthermore known that the scalp is also influenced duringthe colouring process as well as during permanent waving. The skinkeratin is attacked in the same way as the hair keratin. The skin of thehands can also be influenced, since in spite of recommended safetyprecautions from the manufacturers of these products, gloves are notworn or the hands nevertheless come into contact with the dyes orpermanent wave liquid when these are rinsed out.

[0034] The hair and scalp are furthermore a part of the body which,because of its position, is exposed to a considerable proportion of UVradiation during periods in the open. To date there have been only a fewproducts which take into account protection of the hair. Products whichare applied to the hair and scalp after exposure to light, alleviate theadverse effects and thus keep the hair shiny and smooth and prevent oralleviate dandruff are unknown.

[0035] Antioxidants are substances which prevent oxidation processes orwhich prevent the autooxidation of fats containing unsaturatedcompounds. Antioxidants which are also used in the fields of cosmeticsand pharmaceuticals are, for example, α-tocopherol, in particular in theform of α-tocopheryl acetate, sesame oil, bile acid derivatives,butylhydroxyanisole and butylhydroxytoluene.

[0036] Antioxidants and/or free-radical scavengers can also additionallybe incorporated into cosmetic formulations in order to prevent suchreactions.

[0037] Some antioxidants and free-radical scavengers are indeed known.It has thus already been proposed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to employ vitamin E, asubstance of known antioxidative action, in light protectionformulations, but here also the effect achieved falls far short of thathoped for.

[0038] An object of the present invention was to eliminate thedisadvantages of the prior art. In particular, active compounds orformulations comprising such active compounds which, when used, can atleast reduce, if not prevent entirely, damage to the skin and/or haircaused by an oxidative influence were to be provided.

[0039] Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmeticformulations which, before or after treatment of the hair with haircolour formulations or permanent wave products, even those having acontent of potent oxidizing agents, such as, for example, hydrogenperoxide, counteract the damaging oxidizing action thereof.

[0040] In particular, active compounds and formulations comprising suchactive compounds for cosmetic and dermatological treatment and/orprophylaxis of the clinical picture of “stinging” were to be provided.

[0041] It was surprising and was not to be foreseen by the expert thatformulations and active compound combinations according to the inventioncomprising active amounts of substances chosen from the group consistingof flavonoids or their glycosides by themselves or their combinationwith substances from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivativesor hydroxycinnamic acids remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

[0042] The above objects are achieved according to the invention.

[0043] The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological formulationshaving

[0044] a) a content of a compound or several compounds from the groupconsisting of flavonoids, or having

[0045] b) a content of an active compound combination comprising acompound or several compounds chosen from the group consisting offlavonoids in combination with a compound or several compounds chosenfrom the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives and

[0046] c) if appropriate an additional content of a compound or severalcompounds from the group consisting of antioxidants.

[0047] Active compound combinations b), their use and formulations whichcomprise these are preferred.

[0048] Topical formulations are preferred.

[0049] The flavonoids according to the invention are also designated A)below, the cinnamic acid derivatives according to the invention are alsodesignated B) and the antioxidants according to the invention are alsodesignated C).

[0050] Preferred flavonoids according to the invention are, for example,hydroxylated flavones, flavanones, isoflavones or chalcones, and in eachcase also glycosides thereof, and also these non-hydroxylated basestructures or parent substances.

[0051] According to the invention, the flavonoids A) are preferablychosen from the group of substances having the generic structuralformulae

[0052] wherein Z₁-Z₅ independently of one another are chosen from thegroup consisting of H, OH and O-alkyl, wherein the alkyl groups can bebranched and unbranched and can contain 1-18 C atoms, and wherein Gly ischosen from the group consisting of mono-, di- and oligoglycosideradicals or can also be H. Radicals Gly can be, for example, theradicals mentioned for Gly1-Gly3. Radicals Gly can be, for example, theradicals mentioned for Gly₁-Gly₃.

[0053] It is advantageous in the context of the present invention tochoose the flavonoid or flavonoids A) from the group consisting ofquercitin, chrysin, kaempferol, myricetin, apigenin, naringenin,hesperitin, morin, fisetin, vitexin, isovitexin, flavone and genistein.

[0054] It is also advantageous to choose the flavone glycosides A) fromthe group consisting of rutin, rhamnetin, luteolin, naringin,hesperidin, phloridzin, diosmin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

[0055] Chrysin, naringin, hesperidin, naringenin, hesperetin, morin,phloridzin, diosmin, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and flavone areparticularly preferred.

[0056] Further flavonoids A) according to the invention areadvantageously chosen from the group of substances having the genericstructural formulae:

[0057] and

[0058] wherein Z₁-Z₅ have the abovementioned meaning and Gly₁, Gly₂ andGly₃ are monoglycoside radicals.

[0059] Preferably, Gly₁, Gly₂ and Gly₃ independently of one another arechosen from the group consisting of hexosyl radicals or pentosylradicals. Radicals such as allosyl, altrosyl, apiosyl, arabinosyl,ascorbinyl, biosidyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, glucosyl, glucoronidyl,idosyl, mannosyl, talosyl, dulcityl, fructosyl, mannityl, rhamnosyl,ribosyl, sorbityl and xylosyl are advantageously to be used. It isparticularly advantageous to use rhanosyl radicals or glucosyl radicals.

[0060] It is particularly advantageous in the context of the presentinvention to choose the flavone glycoside(s) from the group consistingof alpha-glucosylrutin, alpha-glucosylmyrictrin,alpha-glucosylisoquercitrin and alpha-glucosylquercitrin.

[0061] Compounds such as alpha-glucosylrutin, alpha-glucosylhesperidin,alpha-glycosylnaringin, alpha-mannosylrutin and alpha-rhamnosylrutin aremoreover particularly preferred.

[0062] It may also be advantageous to choose one or more of the Gly₁,Gly₂ and Gly₃ radicals from the group consisting of oligo- or poly-α- or-β-glycosidic compounds, or from the group consisting of sugar acids orsugar esters. One or more Gly₁, Gly₂ and Gly₃ radicals can also bechosen from the group consisting of substituted sugars, such as, forexample, N-acetylglucosamine.

[0063] It can also be of advantage to use flavonoids A) in which theglycoside radical is bonded to C7, C4′, C3′ or C5′ via phenolic OHfunctions.

[0064] It may furthermore be of advantage to use flavonoids A) andglycosides thereof in which the phenolic OH function on C9 is present inthe free form (so-called chalcones). In particular, it is advantageousto use neohesperidin dihydrochalcone from this group.

[0065] Particularly preferred flavonoids A) are: chrysin, naringin,hesperidin, naringenin, hesperetin, morin, phloridzin, diosmin,neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, flavone and, in particular,alpha-glucosylrutin of the formula:

[0066] It may moreover be advantageous in the context of the inventionto use commercially available flavonoid-containing plant extracts. Thesecan be aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous-glycolic extracts obtained by thecustomary methods and also dry extracts.

[0067] Extracts which have proved to be particularly advantageous are:citrus fruit peel or kernel extract (for exampleCitricidal/Synthapharm), soya extract (for example Phytodermin/Chem.Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH), Sophora japonica extract (forexample Sophorine/Solabia), Scotch thistle extract (for example PsoralenSilymarin/Mani GmbH Chemische Produkte), cat's-foot blossom extract,spinach extract and a mixed plant extract of passion flower,blackcurrants and vine leaves (AE Complex/Solabia) and calendula extract(Pot Marigold AMI watersoluble/Alban Muller).

[0068] Suitable cinnamic acid derivatives are, for example,hydroxycinnamic acids and derivatives thereof, it being possible for thederivatives to be, for example, those defined below.

[0069] According to the invention, cinnamic acid derivatives of thegeneral formula

[0070] and/or active amounts of cinnamic acid derivatives of the generalformula

[0071] wherein the groups X, Y an R independently of one another can bechosen from the group consisting of H and branched and unbranched alkylhaving 1-18 C atoms, in particular 1-6 C atoms, can preferably be used.

[0072] The acids or salts thereof, preferably the physiologicallytolerated salts, for example water-soluble salts (sodium and potassiumsalts) can be used.

[0073] Ferulic acid is regarded as a particularly advantageous cinnamicacid derivative in the context of the present invention. Ferulic acid(4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-cinnamic acid, caffeic acid 3-methyl ether) ischaracterized by the structural formula

[0074] It is widespread in plants and occurs, for example, in beetcrops, cereals and the latex of the umbelliferous plants Ferulaasafoetida and Ferula nartex which give it its name. The E form is acolourless crystalline solid under normal conditions, and the Z form isa yellowish oil under normal conditions.

[0075] In the context of the present invention, it is preferable to useE-ferulic acid. However, it is also advantageous, where appropriate, toemploy Z-ferulic acid or any desired mixtures of E- and Z-ferulic acid.

[0076] Another derivative of cinnamic acid which is preferred accordingto the invention is caffeic acid, which is distinguished by thestructure

[0077] It is a widespread plant acid and is contained, for example, incoffee, tobacco, poppy and dandelion.

[0078] It is also advantageous, where appropriate, to use plant extractswith a content of cinnamic acid derivatives according to the invention,in particular ferulic acid and/or caffeic acid.

[0079] The term “derivatives of caffeic acid or ferulic acid” is to beunderstood as meaning their cosmetically or pharmacologically acceptableesters, salts and base adducts, in particular those such as aredescribed above for the cinnamic acid derivatives.

[0080] Preferred combinations according to the invention arecombinations of one or more substances from the group consisting of theabovementioned flavonoids or combinations of one or more representativesof the flavonoids with a derivative of cinnamic acid, or also thecombination with several cinnamic acid derivatives.

[0081] The weight ratio of the cinnamic acid derivatives to theflavonoid or flavonoids is advantageously 25:1 to 1:25, preferably 5:1to 1:5, particularly preferably about 2:1 to 1:2.

[0082] The combinations of flavonoids, flavone glucosides orflavonoid-containing plant extracts with ferulic acid and thecombination of synthetically modified, in particular glycosylatedflavonoids, such as alpha-glucosylrutin, with cinnamic acid derivativesare particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0083] Formulations with combinations b) which comprisealpha-glucosylrutin and/or ferulic acid are particularly preferred.

[0084] The compounds of group A or the combination of active compoundsA) and B) can be present as the sole active compounds in theformulations according to the invention.

[0085] The cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to theinvention preferably comprise 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight,preferably 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% byweight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, ofone or more substances A) according to the invention or of thecombination of A) and B). However, the formulations according to theinvention can also preferably additionally have a content of anantioxidant or several antioxidants C), in addition to the activecompounds A) or the combination of A) and B).

[0086] The antioxidants C) according to the invention can particularlyadvantageously be chosen from the group consisting of tocopherols andderivatives thereof. The tocopherols, also called vitamin E, are derivedfrom the parent substance tocol ((2-methyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl)chroman-6-ol). The configuration 2R,4′R,8′R is assigned toα-tocopherol, which occurs most frequently in nature and is the mostimportant. It is occasionally also called RRR-α-tocopherol.

[0087] The tocopherol derivatives which are preferred according to theinvention are α-tocopherol and its esters, in particular α-tocopherylacetate. Esters of acids having 2 to 18, in particular 2 to 8 C atomsare preferred.

[0088] It is furthermore advantageous to use antioxidants C) from thegroup consisting of amino acids (for example glycine, histidine,tyrosine and tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (forexample urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such asD,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (forexample anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (for example α-carotene,β-carotene and lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid andderivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for exampledihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols(for example thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine andthe glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl,palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof)and salts thereof and sulphoximine compounds (for examplebuthionine-sulphoximines, homocysteine-sulphoximine,buthionine-sulphones and penta-, hexa- and heptathionine-sulphoximine)in very low tolerated dosages (for example pmol to μmol/kg), andfurthermore (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxy-fatty acids,palmitic acid, phytic acid or lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for examplecitric acid, lactic acid and malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bileextracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof,unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenicacid, linoleic acid and oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof,ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C andderivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate andascorbyl acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) andconiferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, butylhydroxytoluene,butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiareticacid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof,mannose and derivatives thereof, sesame oil, sesamolin, zinc andderivatives thereof (for example ZnO and ZnSO₄), selenium andderivatives thereof (for example selenium-methionine), stilbenes andderivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide and trans-stilbeneoxide) and the derivatives of these active compounds mentioned which aresuitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars,nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

[0089] The amount of the abovementioned antioxidants C) (one or morecompounds) in the formulations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight,particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% byweight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0090] The cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations according to theinvention can have the customary composition and can be used for theprophylaxis and/or treatment of the skin in the context ofdermatological treatment or prophylaxis and/or treatment in the contextof cosmetics. However, they can also be employed in make-up products indecorative cosmetics. They preferably comprise 0.001% by weight to 30%by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but inparticular 0.01% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight,of one or more substances A) according to the invention or of thecombination of A) and B).

[0091] It is advantageous according to the invention to use combinationsof several substances according to the invention, in particular if atleast one of the components is chosen from the group consisting offlavonoids or glucosides thereof and cinnamic acid derivatives.

[0092] It is particularly advantageous to use combinations of at leastone compound from the flavonoids A) or derivatives thereof with at leastone compound from the cinnamic acid derivatives B) and vitamin E or itsderivatives C).

[0093] For use, the substances according to the invention andformulations according to the invention comprising such substances,preferably combinations of flavonoids or derivatives thereof, cinnamicacid derivatives and, if appropriate, antioxidants are applied to theskin in an adequate amount in the manner customary for cosmetics ordermatological agents.

[0094] Japanese Laid-Open Specification Hei-06-138,941 indeed describesoral formulations having a content of water-soluble glycosides, whichcan be chosen, for example, from the group consisting ofα-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyrictrin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin andα-glucosylquercitrin. Japanese Laid-Open Specification Hei-04-363,395describes a process for preventing decomposition of perfume constituentswhich is distinguished, inter alia, by an addition of α-glucosylrutin tothe corresponding formulations. European Laid-Open Specification 586 303and European Laid-Open Specification 595 694 furthermore describe theuse of flavonoids as antioxidants or light protection substances incosmetics. It is furthermore known from U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to employ vitamin E incosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations. The useaccording to the invention of vitamin E and its derivatives, however,was not made obvious by the prior art.

[0095] However, no indication which could lead in the direction of thepresent invention is to be found in these specifications.

[0096] It was therefore not foreseeable by the expert that the activecompounds and active compound combinations according to the invention orcosmetic or dermatological formulations comprising these

[0097] act better against ageing of the skin

[0098] provide better protection for the lips

[0099] better protect the skin and hair against photoreactions

[0100] would better protect the hair and scalp during colouring of thehair and permanent waving

[0101] better protect sensitive skin against unpleasant stinging

[0102] are active against non-specific itching compared with the activecompounds, active compound combinations and formulations of the priorart.

[0103] The invention therefore relates to the use of the activecompounds or active compound combinations according to the invention forcombatting and/or prophylaxis of ageing of the skin and inflammatoryreactions caused by exposure to oxidation, and to the actions and usesmentioned above and below.

[0104] The invention therefore also relates to the use of cosmetic anddermatological formulations having

[0105] a) a content of a compound or several compounds from the groupconsisting of flavonoids, or having

[0106] b) a content of an active compound combination comprising acompound or several compounds chosen from the group consisting offlavonoids A) in combination with a compound or several compounds chosenfrom the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives and

[0107] c) if appropriate an additional content of a compound or severalcompounds from the group consisting of antioxidants, for treatment andprophylactic treatment of ageing of the skin, for pretreatment orafter-treatment of the hair or scalp or of the hair root region, inparticular before or after hair treatment, for example during colouringof the hair or permanent waving, for protecting the lips, in particularagainst exogenous noxae, for treatment and for prophylactic treatment ofstinging or non-specific itching, for stabilizing or re-establishing theepidermal barrier function, for reducing or preventing damage to theskin and hair by oxidative influences, for protecting the skin or hairagainst photoreactions and for treatment or prophylactic treatment ofthe ageing of the skin and inflammatory reactions caused by exposure tooxidation.

[0108] Topical application is preferred for this use.

[0109] The cosmetic or dermatological formulations according to theinvention can have the customary composition for these uses and can beused, for example, for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skinand/or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Theypreferably comprise 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01%by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 6% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the activecompounds according to the invention or their active compoundcombinations.

[0110] For use, the cosmetic and dermatological formulations accordingto the invention are preferably applied to the skin and/or hair in anadequate amount for cosmetics.

[0111] Cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to theinvention can be in various forms. They can thus be, for example, asolution, an anhydrous formulation, an emulsion or microemulsion of thewater-in-oil (W/O) type or of the oil-in-water (O/W) type, a multipleemulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type, a gel,a solid stick, an ointment or else an aerosol. It is also advantageousto administer the active compound combinations according to theinvention in encapsulated form, for example encapsulated in collagenmatrices and other customary encapsulating materials, for example ascellulose encapsulations, or in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomally.Wax matrices such as are described in DE-OS 43 08 282 have proved to beparticularly favourable.

[0112] It is also possible and advantageous in the context of thepresent invention to introduce the active compound combinationsaccording to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactantformulations for cleansing of the skin and hair.

[0113] The use of active compound combinations according to theinvention for protection of the skin and/or hair against exposure tooxidation, in particular this use of the active compound combinationsaccording to the invention in shampoos and washing formulations, istherefore also to be regarded as an advantageous embodiment of thepresent invention.

[0114] The cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to theinvention can comprise cosmetic auxiliaries such as are usually used insuch formulations, for example preservatives, bactericides, perfumes,substances for preventing foaming, dyestuffs, pigments which have acolouring action, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers,softening, humidifying and/or humectant substances, fats, oils, waxes orother customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatologicalformulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers,electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

[0115] In particular, the formulations according to the invention canalso comprise other antioxidants.

[0116] Favourable antioxidants which can be used according to theinvention are all the antioxidants which are suitable or customary forcosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

[0117] The antioxidants are advantageously chosen from the groupconsisting of amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine andtryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanicacid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine,D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine),carotenoids, carotenes (for example α-carotene, β-carotene and lycopene)and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof,liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid),aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for examplethioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl,N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl,oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and saltsthereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate,thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides,lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulphoximine compounds(for example buthionine-sulphoximines, homo-cysteine-sulphoximine,buthionine-sulphones and penta-, hexa- and heptathionine-sulphoximine)in very low tolerated dosages (for example pmol to μmol/kg), andfurthermore (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxy-fatty acids,palmitic acid, phytic acid or lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for examplecitric acid, lactic acid and malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bileextracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof,unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenicacid, linoleic acid and oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof,ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C andderivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate andascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin Eacetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferylbenzoate of benzoin resin, rutic acid and derivatives thereof,butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid andderivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, sesame oil,sesamolin, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO and ZnSO₄),selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium-methionine),stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide andtrans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives of these active compoundsmentioned which are suitable according to the invention (salts, esters,ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

[0118] The amount of the abovementioned antioxidants (one or morecompounds), which are not identical to the active compound combinationsaccording to the invention, in the formulations is preferably 0.001 to30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0119] If vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant orantioxidants, it is advantageous to choose the particular concentrationsthereof from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the totalweight of the formulation.

[0120] If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or derivativesthereof are the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous tochoose the particular concentrations thereof from the range from 0.001to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0121] Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous andcomprise, for example, the fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substancesmentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier such as is usually usedfor such a type of formulation.

[0122] The lipid phase can advantageously be chosen here from thefollowing group of substances:

[0123] naturally occurring, synthetic and/or semi-synthetic oils, suchas triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

[0124] fats, waxes and other naturally occurring synthetic and/orsemi-synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids withalcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycolor glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low Cnumber or with fatty acids;

[0125] silicone oils, such as dimethyl polysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenyl polysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof;

[0126] saturated compounds, such as hydrocarbons of natural or syntheticorigin (vaseline, squalane)

[0127] The aqueous phase of the formulations according to the inventionadvantageously comprises, where appropriate, alcohols, diols or polyolsof low C number, and ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol,propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethylor monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutylether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogousproducts, and furthermore alcohols of low C number, for example ethanol,isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol and glycerol, and in particular one or morethickeners, which can advantageously be chosen from the group consistingof silicon dioxide, aluminium silicates, polysaccharides and derivativesthereof, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum andhydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the groupconsisting of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group ofso-called Carbopols, for example Carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984and 5984, or also of the ETD (easy-to-disperse) types 2001, 2020 and2050, in each case individually or in any desired combinations with oneanother.

[0128] Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular.In the case of alcoholic solvents, water can be a further constituent.

[0129] Gels according to the invention usually comprise alcohols of lowC number, for example ethanol, iso-propanol, 1,2-propanediol, glyceroland water, or an abovementioned oil, in the presence of a thickener,which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminium silicate in the caseof oily-alcoholic gels and is preferably a polyacrylate in the case ofaqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

[0130] Suitable propellants for formulations according to the inventionwhich can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary knownreadily volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons(propane, butane, isobutane), which can be employed by themselves or asa mixture with one another. Compressed air can also advantageously beused.

[0131] Formulations according to the invention can furthermoreadvantageously comprise substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVBrange, the total amount of filter substances being, for example, 0.1% byweight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulations, inorder to provide cosmetic formulations which protect the hair or skinfrom the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used assunscreen agents for the hair or skin.

[0132] If the emulsions according to the invention comprise UVB filtersubstances, these can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVBfilters which are advantageous according to the invention are, forexample:

[0133] 3-benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor and 3-benzylidene-camphor;

[0134] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl4-(dimethylamino)-benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;

[0135] esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl4-methoxycinnamate and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;

[0136] esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate,4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate and homo-menthyl salicylate;

[0137] derivatives of benzophenone, preferably2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone and 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone;

[0138] esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-(2-ethylhexyl)4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

[0139] 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine.

[0140] Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example:

[0141] salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, such as itssodium, potassium or its triethanol-ammonium salt, and the sulphonicacid itself;

[0142] sulphonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid and its salts;

[0143] sulphonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as, forexample, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzenesulphonic acid,2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulphonic acid and itssalts.

[0144] The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used incombination with the active compound combinations according to theinvention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

[0145] The invention also relates to the use of a combination of theactive compounds according to the invention with at least one UVB filteras an antioxidant and to the use of a combination of the activecompounds according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as anantioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.

[0146] It may also be advantageous to combine active compounds accordingto the invention with UVA filters which have usually been contained todate in cosmetic formulations. These substances are preferablyderivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione and1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione. The invention alsorelates to these combinations and formulations which comprise thesecombinations. The amounts used for the UVB combination can be employed.

[0147] The invention also relates to the use of a combination of theactive compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filteras an antioxidant and to the use of a combination of the activecompounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as anantioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.

[0148] The invention also relates to the use of a combination of theactive compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filterand at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant and to the use of acombination of the active compounds according to the invention with atleast one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in acosmetic or dermatological formulation.

[0149] Cosmetic and dermatological formulations having an active contentof active compounds according to the invention can also compriseinorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics for protectingthe skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron,zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and cerium and mixturesthereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the activeagents. The pigments are particularly preferably those based on titaniumdioxide.

[0150] The invention also relates to these combinations of UVA filtersand pigment and to formulations which comprise this combination. Theamounts mentioned for the above combinations can be used.

[0151] Cosmetic and dermatological formulations for protecting the hairfrom UV rays in accordance with the invention are, for example,shampooing compositions, formulations which are used when rinsing thehair before or after shampooing, before or after permanent wavetreatment or before or after colouring or bleaching the hair,formulations for blow-drying or setting the hair, formulations forcolouring or bleaching, a styling and treatment lotion, a hair lacqueror a permanent wave composition.

[0152] The cosmetic and dermatological formulations comprise activecompounds and auxiliaries such as are usually used for this type offormulation for hair care and hair treatment. The auxiliaries used arepreservatives, surface-active substances, substances for preventingfoaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents,bactericides, perfumes, dyestuffs or pigments, the task of which is tocolour the hair or the cosmetic or dermatological formulation itself,electrolytes and substances to prevent the hair becoming greasy.

[0153] Electrolytes in the context of the present invention are to beunderstood as meaning water-soluble alkali metal, ammonium, alkalineearth metal (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions andany desired mixtures of such salts, where it must be ensured that thesesalts are distinguished by pharmaceutical or cosmetic acceptability.

[0154] The anions according to the invention are preferably chosen fromthe group consisting of chlorides, sulphates and hydrogen sulphates,phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and the linear and cyclicoligophosphates, and carbonates and bicarbonates.

[0155] Cosmetic formulations which are a skin cleansing composition orshampooing composition preferably comprise at least one anionic,nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or also mixtures of suchsubstances, active compounds according to the invention in an aqueousmedium and auxiliaries such as are usually used for this purpose. Thesurface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can bepresent in the shampooing composition in a concentration of between 1%by weight and 50% by weight.

[0156] If the cosmetic or dermatological formulations are in the form ofa lotion which is rinsed out and is used, for example, before or afterbleaching, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps orbefore or after permanent wave treatment, they are, for example, aqueousor aqueous-alcoholic solutions which comprise, if appropriate,surface-active substances, the concentration of which can be between 0.1and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.

[0157] These cosmetic or dermatological formulations can also beaerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for this purpose.

[0158] A cosmetic formulation in the form of a lotion which is notrinsed out, in particular a lotion for setting the hair, a lotion whichis used for blow-drying the hair or a styling and treatment lotion, isin general an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution andcomprises at least one cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymeror also mixtures thereof, as well as active compound combinationsaccording to the invention in an active concentration. The amount ofpolymers used is, for example, between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferablybetween 0.1 and 3% by weight.

[0159] Cosmetic formulations for the treatment and care of the hairwhich comprise active compounds according to the invention can be in theform of emulsions which are of the nonionic or anionic type. In additionto water, nonionic emulsions comprise oils or fatty alcohols, which, forexample, can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, or alsomixtures of the two organic components. If appropriate, these emulsionscomprise cationic surface-active substances.

[0160] According to the invention, cosmetic formulations for thetreatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, inaddition to an active content of active compound combinations accordingto the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferablywater, also comprise organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthangum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose,hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose orhydroxypropylmethylcellulose, or inorganic thickeners, for examplealuminium silicates, such as, for example, bentonites, or a mixture ofpolyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. Thegel comprises the thickener, for example, in an amount of between 0.1and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

[0161] The amount of active compounds according to the invention in acomposition intended for hair is preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% byweight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.

[0162] Aqueous cosmetic cleansing compositions according to theinvention or cleansing composition concentrates which are of low watercontent or anhydrous and are intended for aqueous cleansing can compriseanionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, for example

[0163] conventional soaps, for example fatty acid salts of sodium

[0164] alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether-sulphates and alkane- andalkylbenzenesulphonates

[0165] sulphoacetates

[0166] sulphobetaines

[0167] sarcosinates

[0168] amidosulphobetaines

[0169] sulphosuccinates

[0170] sulphosuccinic acid half-esters

[0171] alkyl ether-carboxylates

[0172] protein-fatty acid condensates

[0173] alkylbetaines and amidobetaines

[0174] fatty acid alkanolamides

[0175] polyglycol ether derivatives

[0176] Cosmetic formulations which are cosmetic cleansing formulationsfor the skin can be in liquid or solid form. In addition to activecompounds according to the invention, they preferably comprise at leastone anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixturesthereof, if desired one or more electrolytes and auxiliaries such as areusually used for this purpose. The surface-active substance can bepresent in the cleansing formulations in a concentration of between 1and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulations.

[0177] Cosmetic formulations which are a shampooing compositionpreferably comprise, in addition to an active content of activecompounds according to the invention, at least one anionic, nonionic oramphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if appropriatean electrolyte according to the invention and auxiliaries such as areusually used for this purpose. The surface-active substance can bepresent in the shampooing composition in a concentration of between 1%by weight and 94% by weight.

[0178] In addition to the abovementioned surfactants, the compositionsaccording to the invention comprise water and, if appropriate, theadditives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners,dyestuffs, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, agents which restoreoils, complexing and sequestering agents, perlescent agents, plantextracts, vitamins, active compounds and the like.

[0179] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process forprotecting the skin and hair from oxidative or photooxidative processes,which is characterized in that a cosmetic composition which comprises anactive concentration of active compounds according to the invention isapplied to the skin or hair in an adequate amount.

[0180] The present invention also relates to a process for protectingcosmetic or dermatological formulations against oxidation orphotooxidation, these formulations being, for example, formulations forthe treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colouringcompositions, hair lacquers, shampooing compositions and colourshampooing compositions, and furthermore make-up products, such as, forexample, nail varnishes, lipsticks, complexion foundations, washing andshower formulations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or allthe other cosmetic formulations, the constituents of which presentstability problems during storage because of oxidation orphotooxidation, characterized in that the cosmetic formulations comprisean active content of active compounds according to the invention.

[0181] The amount of active compounds according to the invention inthese formulations is preferably 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, inparticular 0.01% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight ofthe formulations.

[0182] The invention also relates to the process for the preparation ofthe formulations according to the invention, which is characterized inthat active compounds according to the invention are incorporated intocosmetic and dermatological formulations in a manner known per se.

[0183] Unless stated otherwise, all the amounts data, contents andpercentage contents are based on the weight and the total amount or onthe total weight of the formulations.

[0184] The following examples are intended to illustrate the presentinvention without limiting it.

EXAMPLE 1

[0185] W/O cream % by weight Paraffin oil 10.00 Petrolatum 4.00 Wool waxalcohol 1.00% PEG 7-hydrogenated castor oil 3.00 Aluminium stearate 0.40Rutin 0.50 Ferulic acid 0.50 Glycerol 2.00 Water, preservative andperfume to 100.00

EXAMPLE 2

[0186] W/O lotion % by weight Paraffin oil 20.00 Petrolatum 4.00 Glucosesesquiisostearate 2.00 Aluminium stearate 0.40 Naringin 1.00 Ferulicacid 0.25 Vitamin E acetate 2.00 Vitamin C palmitate 0.20 Glycerol 5.00Water, preservative and perfume to 100.00

EXAMPLE 3

[0187] O/W lotion % by weight Paraffin oil 8.00 Isopropyl palmitate 3.00Petrolatum 4.00 Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 PEG 40-castor oil 0.50 Sodiumcetearyl sulphate 0.50 Sodium carbomer 0.40 Hesperidin 0.50 Naringin0.20 Ferulic acid 0.25 Glycerol 3.00 α-Tocopherol 0.20 Octylmethoxycinnaniate 5.00 Butylme thoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Water,preservative and perfume to 100.00

EXAMPLE 4

[0188] O/W cream % by weight Paraffin oil 7.00 Avocado oil 4.00 Glycerylmonostearate 2.00 Sodium stearate 1.00 Caffeic acid 0.50 α-Glucosylrutin0.20 Sodium phytate 1.00 Titanium dioxide 1.00 Sodium lactate 3.00Glycerol 3.00 Water, preservative and perfume to 100.00

EXAMPLE 5

[0189] Lip care stick % by weight Hydrogenated castor oil 4.00 Ceresin8.00 Beeswax 4.00 Carnauba wax 2.00 Petrolatum 40.00α-Glucosylhesperidin 1.00 β-Carotene 0.10 Caffeic acid 0.30 Paraffinoil, pigments and dyestuffs to 100.00

EXAMPLE 6

[0190] Liposome-contaifling gel % by weight Lecithin 6.00 Shea butter3.00 Ferulic acid 0.50 Chrysin 0.10 Vitamin A palmitate 0.20 Biotin 0.08Sodium citrate 0.50 Glycine 0.20 Urea 0.20 Sodium PCA 0.50 Hydrolysedcollagen 2.00 Xanthan gum 1.40 Sorbitol 3.00 Water, preservative andperfume to 100.00

EXAMPLE 7

[0191] Hair treatment course % by weight Paraffin oil 3.00 Almond oil3.00 Cetostearyl alcohol 5.00 PEG 40-castor oil 1.00 Sodium cetearylsulphate 0.50 Sorbitol 5.00 Glycerol 5.00 Ferulic acid 0.50 Citricidal0.80 Dilauryl thiodipropionate 0.05 L-Arginine 0.10 Water, preservativeand perfume to 100.00

EXAMPLE 8

[0192] Massage cream % by weight Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Petrolatum 4.00Dimethicone 2.00 Isopropyl palmitate 6.00 Cetearyl alcohol 4.00 PEG40-hydrogenated castor oil 2.00 Ferulic acid 0.50 α-Glucosylrutin 0.30Glycerol 3.00 Water, preservative and perfume to 100.00

Patent claims
 1. Cosmetic and dermatological formulations having a) acontent of a compound or several compounds from the group consisting offlavonoids, or having b) a content of an active compound combinationcomprising a compound or several compounds chosen from the groupconsisting of flavonoids in combination with a compound or severalcompounds chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivativesand c) if appropriate an additional content of a compound or severalcompounds from the group consisting of antioxidants.
 2. Use of thecosmetic and dermatological formulations according to claim 1 having a)a content of a compound or several compounds from the group consistingof flavonoids, or having b) a content of an active compound combinationcomprising a compound or several compounds chosen from the groupconsisting of flavonoids A) in combination with a compound or severalcompounds chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivativesand c) if appropriate an additional content of a compound or severalcompounds from the group consisting of antioxidants, for treatment andprophylactic treatment of ageing of the skin, for pretreatment orafter-treatment of the hair or scalp or of the hair root region, inparticular before or after hair treatment, for example during colouringof the hair or permanent waving, for protecting the lips, in particularagainst exogenous noxae, for treatment and for prophylactic treatment ofstinging or non-specific itching, for stabilizing or re-establishing theepidermal barrier function, for reducing or preventing damage to theskin and hair by oxidative influences, for protecting the skin or hairagainst photoreactions and for treatment or prophylactic treatment ofthe ageing of the skin and inflammatory reactions caused by exposure tooxidation.
 3. Formulations according to claim 1, characterized in thatthey comprise one or more compounds from the group consisting of theflavonoids quercitin, chrysin, caempferol, myricetin, apigenin,naringenin, hesperitin, morin, fisetin, vitexin, isovitexin, flavone,genistein, rutin, rhamnetin, luteolin, naringin, hesperidin, phloridzin,diosmin, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, alpha-glucosyl rutin, alphaglucosyl mytrictrin, alpha-gisoquercitrintin andalpha-glucosylquercitrin, alpha-glycosylrutin, alpha-glycoslyhesperidin,alpha-glycosylnaringin, alpha-mannosylrutin and alpha-rhamnosylrutin. 4.Formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that they comprisethe combination b).
 5. Formulations according to claim 1, characterizedin that they comprise one or more hydroxycinnamic acids.
 6. Formulationsaccording to claim 1, characterized in that cinnamic acid derivatives ofthe general formula

and/or active amounts of cinnamic acid derivatives of the generalformula

wherein the groups X, Y and R independently of one another can be chosenfrom the group consisting of H and branched or unbranched alkyl having1-18 C atoms, in particular 1-6 C atoms, are used.
 7. Formulationsaccording to claim 1, characterized in that they comprise caffeic acidand/or ferulic acid.
 8. Formulations with combinations b) which comprisealpha-glucosylrutin and/or ferulic acid.